双语美文之似水流年 (120)经比萨和锡耶纳到罗马(3)

The church is bright with trophies of the sea,and votive offerings,in commemoration of escape from storm and shipwreck. The dwellings not immediately abutting on the harbour are approached by blind low archways,and by crooked steps,as if in darkness and in difficulty of access they should be like holds of ships,or inconvenient cabins under water;and everywhere,there is a smell of fish,and sea-weed,and old rope.

海上战利品和祭祀的贡品醒目地摆在教堂里,这是为了纪念水手们从暴风雨和船难中的逃生。水手们的房屋不是直接与海港相接,而是通过隐蔽而低矮的拱门和弯曲的台阶逐步接近,如同在黑暗和艰难中,他们摸索进人船舱或不便的水下房仓的通道一样。到处是鱼腥味、海藻和破绳索。

The coast-road whence Camoglia is descried so far below,is famous,in the warm season,especially in some parts near Genoa,for fire- flies. Walking there on a dark night,I have seen it made one sparkling firmament by these beautiful insects: so that the distant stars were pale against the flash and glitter that spangled every olive wood and hill-side,and pervaded the whole air.

从滨海大道可以远远地看到下面的卡莫格利亚。温暖的季节里,卡莫格利亚,尤其 是热那亚附近的那些地方,以萤火虫而出名。漆黑的夜晚在那里漫步,我看到那些美丽的昆虫使天空闪闪发光:那闪烁的光芒点缀了每片橄榄树林和每座小山丘,照亮了整个天空,连远处的星星也醅然失色。

It was not in such a season,however,that we traversed this road on our way to Rome. The middle of January was only just past,and it was very gloomy and dark weather; very wet besides. In crossing the fine pass of Bracco,we encountered such a storm of mist and rain,that we travelled in a cloud the whole way. There might have been no Mediterranean in the world,for anything that we saw of it there,except when a sudden gust of wind,clearing the mist before it,for a moment,showed the agitated sea at a great depth below,lashing the distant rocks,and spouting up its foam furiously. The rain was incessant;every brook and torrent was greatly swollen; and such a deafening leaping,and roaring,and thundering of water,I never heard the like of in my life.

然而,在我们前往罗马经过这里时,却没赶上这样的季节。此时正值一月中旬,天气阴郁,还很潮湿。在横越美丽的伯拉科关口时,我们遭遇了浓雾和暴风雨,以至于整个旅途都是阴郁的天气。我们根本看不到地中海的存在,只有突然的一阵狂风吹走眼前浓雾的那一刻,才能看到下面很深的澎湃海水,抽打着远处的岩石,猛烈地喷出它的泡沫。雨不停地下着,每一条小溪和急流都迅速地涨起来,这样震耳欲聋的撞击声、咆哮声和轰鸣声,是我从未听到过的。

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